It is about time I started to look back on my European trips in 2023. I have really managed to make the most of it, so much so that I nearly forgot the trip that kicked it all off: an unforgettable and cold weekend away to the city of Gdansk in Poland.
Throughout this series, I will retell my memories of Europe in 2023 and try and encourage readers to jump out of their comfort zones and enjoy all the benefits that come with exploring this continent. Join me on a thrilling journey through Europe, where my own travel tales come to life. From the captivating canals of Amsterdam to the mystical Balkans, this series will share my personal discoveries, newfound passions, and the gems (literally - and more of that later) I stumbled upon.
Europe's eclectic history, art, and culture awaits, and my adventure in 2023 began with a curiosity to explore the uncharted. In fact, my new year's resolution was to visit as many new places as possible. I had become comfortable in the beauty I had already found in Europe. Now it was time to try somewhere new. This all started in Gdansk, a Polish city close to the Baltic Sea.
Why Gdansk?
Why? Because I knew nothing about it. Plus, I always encourage people to go away in January. Everybody has spent all their money which means there is very little demand for flights. So what does that mean? Cheap flights all over Europe. In recent years, I have travelled to Berlin, Nuremberg, and the Canary Islands in January and not spent over £60 return for a flight from the UK. Coupled with lower demand for hotels - we paid £142 for a couple in the beautiful Hotel Number One by Grano for 3 nights in a studio room, with a separate bedroom - you are getting a very cheap weekend away.
Anybody who lives in the UK will know how depressing it is in January and February so this was our time to get some relief by exploring somewhere new!
We got an evening flight to Gdansk airport and after an extremely cheap Uber to our hotel (if you get lazy in this city, I have never seen Uber prices so inexpensive!) we were ready to battle the cold and get our first glimpse of Gdansk's splendour. It had got to 9.30pm and I had found a well-rated pizza restaurant Sempre Trójmiasto. My partner, being British and polite to the extreme, thought it was a terrible idea to go just before it closed at 10.00pm, but she was convinced once we arrived and were served the best pizza Gdansk has to offer - we didn't make the best start in terms of trying the local cuisine!
It was getting late, but we had walked along the Motlawa River that divides Gdansk's city centre, with beautiful tall facades either side, and were already impressed. One final stop was to meet some friends from home in a Polish bar. Beer and shots were of course consumed with the receipts leaving you questioning whether we were drunk or whether the proprietors were even making a profit at such welcomng prices!
Must do:
Sopot day trip
Walkative walking tour
Milk bars
Pierogi restaurants
European Solidarity Centre
Mariacka Street
Day 1: A day trip to Sopot
You might question why the first thing we did in Gdansk was to leave. We only had one day with our friends and they had already spent a lot of time in the centre so we decided to hop on a short train to one of the Baltic's most impressive seaside towns. Stepping off the train in Sopot, our adventure unfolded as we meandered down the bustling high street towards the sea.
Our path was lined with charming shops and cozy cafes, their facades adorned with a blend of vibrant colours and quaint architecture, and of course those classic high street names that get everywhere. Amidst this lively tapestry, a peculiar sight caught our eye – the crooked house or if you would like to give the local name a go and can deal with words without vowels, Krzywy Domek. You can't explain this place. It is a shopping centre and for some reason, in 2004, it was built in this bizarre fashion. You think you are seeing a unique tourist sight, and then look a little closer to see it houses a Costa Coffee! Anyway, it is worth a brief look and photo before you head to Sopot's main event, the longest wooden pier in Europe.
Strolling along the iconic wooden pier, we marveled at the panoramic views of the sea, the distant grey horizon merging into the baltic grey air so that you could not tell each from the other. With the obligatory Instagram photos taken, we gazed on to something strange taking place on the sands below us. Groups of adults and children were digging into the sand. We had to take a closer look.
This led to one of the most enchanting experiences in Sopot, our impromptu amber-hunting escapade on the sandy shores. It turned out that all these people were hunting for amber, a gem famous for being found on the baltic coast. We found ourselves engaged in the age-old tradition of digging for the Baltic Gold. With each scoop of sand, we became treasure hunters, hoping to unearth a piece of amber, a gem with a tale as old as time. The thrill of the search, combined with the soothing sound of the waves, created a magical ambiance that transported us to a bygone era. Sopot, with its blend of seaside allure and historical charm, proved to be a destination where every moment held the promise of discovery and delight - and yes, we did find some to take home!
We jumped on a short train back to Gdansk and headed straight to Browar PG4, a brewery serving a selection of different beers, which certainly warmed us up after a cold day. We ended our day drinking by the Motlawa River.
Day 2: Exploring Gdansk
We wanted to really get to know the city and Walkative's walking tours in Poland are ideal for this and the one in Gdansk was no exception. We met at Zlota Brama, the gate to the city's old town. While searching for the guide's yellow umbrella I could not help but notice a memorial on the ground. It was dedicated to Mayor Paweł Adamowicz, who's untimely death in January 2019 sent ripples through the city's resilient soul. He fell victim to a knife attack during a public charity event at this very spot. The news shocked Gdansk, a city that had thrived under his leadership and only added to Gdansk's often tragic history.
Wandering through Gdansk's Old Town on this interesting but uncomfortably cold walking tour, history unfolded like chapters of a captivating novel. The streets beneath our feet had witnessed the city's medieval origins, where Gothic spires stand as stoic guardians of a bygone era. St. Mary's Church, with its towering elegance, whispers tales of maritime prosperity, while the iconic Neptune Fountain embodies Gdansk's beauty. The Long Market, lined with colorful facades, breathes life into the Hanseatic League's legacy, and a memorial to Daniel Fahrenheit, a large wooden thermometer, reminds us of the important minds born in this city. Amidst the chilly air, remnants of World War II linger, revealing scars on facades, a testament to Gdansk's resilience. Each step unveils a frozen tapestry of time, embracing Gdansk's multifaceted history.
Our final stop was at Gdansk Post Office where a seige occurred in September 1939, marked one of the early clashes between German and Polish forces at the onset of World War II. As Nazi Germany invaded Poland, Gdansk, a strategic port city, witnessed intense fighting. The Polish defenders, primarily postal workers led by Captain Konrad Guderski, heroically resisted the German assault for several days. Despite being heavily outnumbered and outgunned, the Poles held their ground, buying valuable time for other Polish units. Eventually overwhelmed, the defenders succumbed to the superior German forces, but their courage became a symbol of Polish resistance and resilience during the tumultuous early days of the war. It was a somber end to a cold morning.
To warm us up we headed to Bar Turystyczny, a famous milk bar in the city. The unassuming charm of the place transported me to a time when milk bars were regularly needed during the communist era. Milk bars were initially intended to provide affordable and nutritious meals to the masses. Over time, they became cultural institutions, offering a glimpse into Poland's culinary heritage. Set out like a buffet canteen, a testament to the uncomplicated joys of Polish cuisine, I opted for a classic. I savoured a chicken schnitzel, perfectly crisp, accompanied by a comforting mound of mashed potatoes and a medley of seasonal vegetables and gravy, all of which ordered through a simple point of the finger. In that unpretentious milk bar, every bite spoke of tradition and the enduring appeal of hearty, warm meals.
Our last stop of the day was the Amber Museum. This museum showcases a diverse collection of amber artifacts, detailing the history and cultural significance of this unique gemstone. While it offers a decent exploration of amber's beauty and uses, after a day on our feet we could have done without it. A simple walk down Mariacka Street, famed for it's amber stores, which we did the following day, gives you a better taste of Gdansk's links to the gem.
Day 3: The Solidarity Center and Pierogi
I knew nothing about the Solidairty Movement and this is the beauty of travelling for me - you learn as you move. Initially oblivious to the significance, I soon discovered the profound impact this movement had on shaping not just Polish, but European history. The European Solidarity Centre narrated a tale of labour discontent, shipyard strikes, and a nation's quest for freedom. The Solidarity movement was born in Gdansk in 1980 and was a pivotal force against communist rule. Lech Walesa, an electrician and shipyard worker, emerged as its charismatic leader (and later the country's leader). The movement advocated for workers' rights and political freedoms, ultimately contributing to the downfall of the Eastern Bloc and Poland's transition to democracy. Anybody interested in Europe's recent history cannot miss this place.
After realising the that World War 2 Museum was closed, we settled on a steep climb to the top of St Mary's Church tower, before heading to a staple of Polish cuisine, a pierogi bar. We chose Mandu after seeing how highly rated it was - always check Google reviews! After sitting down and settling on a selection of different pierogi options, we savoured each dumpling. These pocketfuls of Polish delight, revealed a symphony of flavors—traditional fillings like potato and cheese danced alongside more adventurous choices. To cap it off, a chocolate pierogi dessert delivered a sweet finale, a culinary embrace of Gdansk's delectable charm.
A cheap Uber back to the airport ended a delightful weekend in this Polish (amber) gem.